The added benefit to the rebuild is that the new shelves look sooooo much better! Check out the before and after!
- 1 of 1x6x8 pine select board
- 1 of 1x6x4 pine select board
- 1 of 1x4x8 pine select board
- 1 of 2x2x8 spf board
- No More Nails glue
- wood filler
- stain of your choice
- clear coat of your choice
- sanding blocks (or you can use a sander like I did)
- something to apply the stain with (I bought socks at the dollar store to apply stain with)
- sponge brush for applying the clear coat
- 2 of 1/4 x 2 x 2 poplar hobby board
Tools we used:
- compound saw to cut the boards to length
- drill (with screwdriver bits and drill bits)
- air nailer
- rotary sander
- out of the 1x4x8
- 1 of 30", 1 of 20", 4 of 5.5"
- out of the 1x6x8
- 2 of 28.5", 1 of 18.5"
- out of the 1x6x4
- 1 of 18.5"
- out of the 2x2x8
- 1 of 27.5", 1 of 17.5", 7 of 4"
- Ryan held the actual shelf casing against the wall where I wanted it to go and after centering and levelling it, I traced around it on the wall with a pencil. We did this for each of the shelves.
- Then, I measured how the thick the casing was to determine where it would rest on the brace and then drew on the wall where the brace would be setting.
- Now we could see where to cut into the wall to create the new 'super anchors'. Ryan cut rectangles out of the drywall with a Dremel, big enough to slip in the poplar hobby board that was cut to length.
- We applied No More Nails glue on the end that would be snug up against the inside of the drywall. Using a screw (screwed in just enough to grip the wood) on one end as a 'handle', we slipped the board in the hole and slid it back inside the wall to rest up against the back of the drywall and then screwed into the wall and the subsequent board to secure it there.
- We then filled the holes back in with the drywall scraps and screwed those into the new board backing them. This created a long strip of reinforced 'anchors'! We didn't bother crackfilling as it wouldn't be showing once the shelf casing was up anyway.
By making the frames smaller than the actual hole inside of the boxes, it allows for wiggle room for adjusting from side to side (less errors that way). I haven't yet as of this post but will do it this week, screw a couple black screws down through the tops next to the wall into the frames to secure them snugly. No one will see the screws and it not only keeps them in place but if you do ever have to take them off (like for repainting the wall someday or something like that), they are still easily removable.
Speaking of the boxes again, after woodfilling the seams in the boxes and allowing the filler to dry, I used a rotary sander and sanded the whole thing. The rotary sander makes getting all the places where the pieces join together smooth. Also, its VERY important to sand the wood filler stains off the pieces, leaving it ONLY in the actual seams/holes. (Yup, lesson learned the hard way. If you leave the filler stains on the wood, it shows up big time! I took pictures but am too ashamed of myself to post them. It was a chore getting back to the original wood. It sure doesn't pay to get in a hurry.)
I used one coat of Old Masters gel stain in Spanish Oak and for the top coat, I used General Finishes Flat Out Flat (one coat).